25 September, 2007

Developing Cambodia

Z and I had a long weekend away this week. We took ourselves on a 700km tour of the South East of Cambodia. Along the way we came across 2 places that are “undergoing development” and may soon be changed beyond recognition.
Firstly, some of the limestone mountains at Kampong Trach are being sold to quarrying concessions, and, although this is a comparatively small scale operation, it’s damaging the landscape in a noticeable way. The approach and entrance to the swimming cave has already been spoiled, how long before the rest go the same way?
Secondly, an American company has bought the rights to develop Angkaol’s “secret beach”. Reportedly, they already have permission for the development from CDC. How long before the fishing villages under the palms turn into a small Sihanoukville?

Following are route guides to these 2 places in the Kep area, the Hollow Mountain caves at Kampong Trach and the “secret beach” at Angkaol. Go and see them before it’s too late.

From Phnom Penh to Kep, the Soriya bus costs $4 each way, or, if you prefer, a taxi costs around $25 for the whole car. Find yourself a hotel in Kep and hire a small moto ($5 a day).

1. Hollow Mountain caves.

A = Sessaw, the white horse junction. Traveling from Kep, turn right here.



B + C = Turn left (North) in Kampong Trach.



D + E = Follow this road.



F = Straight ahead



G = Turn right for the Hollow Mountain, go straight ahead for the swimming cave, (not so good now).


Follow the marked map below.



The main cave of the hollow mountain was formed by the collapse of the roof of a large cavern. Remaining is a circular hole in the center of the mountain surrounded by an undercut wall, from which further caves and staircases lead away.


Outside the Wat



The dragon's throat



The dragon's throat



The dragon's belly



Staircase to the top.



2 Buddhas guarding the underground pool.



Buddha



Hungry Buddha



Reclining Buddha



The swimming cave entrance is a bit of a mess now as someone is quarrying around it.


The water is deep enough to allow you to swim easily.


There will be lots of kids eager to show you around the caves, take along a few thousand reil for them for their time.

2. Angkaol Beach.

Follow the marked map below.



A = Sessaw, the white horse junction. Traveling from Kep, turn right here.



B = Damnak Chang’Aeur. Turn right at this stone sign.



C = Follow this road.



D = Follow the road round the corner to the left at Phum Phnom Liev market.



E = Straight ahead.



F = Turn left.



G = Turn right immediately over the bridge and pass through archway H.



H = Follow this road.



I = Turn right.



J = Turn right for the main beach (car access), or turn left for the smaller beaches (no car access).



K + L = Angkaol beach.




The main beach itself is around 2km long and is made up of fine yellow/orange sand.
Just prior to this visit, there had been some rough seas for a few days, so quite a lot of sea grass had been pushed up onto the beach. It’s normally a lot cleaner than shown in these photos.

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